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When I remove my earplugs at 0430 AM there is still a remnant party going on downstairs. This is the coolest time of day and I want to enjoy it, cherish the fresh breath of air coming through my balcony doors. My dreams tonight are bitter, cynical and rejective. Another reason to stay in. What will I make of that?

And yet it is a beautiful walk today, over rolling hills through a nice region. Slowly my depression changes to the joy of walking here. And again there is free coffee with a smile and the offer of beer.


When it gets hotter it becomes harder to be happy. I am so glad to find this little river around noon, hidden in lush green. There are butterflies and all kins of lovely flowers. Take my shoes off and lie down! But the water feels warm to the skin and also I keep sweating. Then I realise my paradise is a sauna.

At 40 C and a humidity of 100% because of the sheltered water there is there is no way you can cool down here. It’s even hard to breathe.

So I am back on my feet before 3 PM, getting myself out of this lush green hell. It’s only 5 kilometres to Ćuprija but it takes me two hours. Every kilometre or so I have to stop under a tree, feel the cooling wind on my skin, catch my breath. That wind is treacherous as well because it feels cooling but it sucks every drop of moisture from your skin. Under the last tree I really have to make an effort, I can see myself being found mummified to death.

Ćupria presents a depressing look at the entry of the town. Empty, desolate factories under a glaring sun, run down appartments, streets with cracks and fissures. I feel a threat in the air, a kind of desperation. As if it were a place where people are permanently out of breath. My hotel is on the kind side of town, where there is enough breathing space.



  1. Tough; hellish even! I really admire your strength and stamina.

    • Hell is always only one step away. As is heaven. It’s about keeping the balance while keeping moving!

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